Button Guide

Button Advice from Lucky, “The Button Queen”

Choose your buttons before making buttonholes or loops.
To determine the buttonhole size, wrap a narrow strip of paper or non-stretch string or twill tape around the button at its greatest vertical circumference (thickness). Hold it securely and slip the button out. Flatten the loop. Add 1/16” to the resulting length. That’s the buttonhole size, but make a test buttonhole to confirm. Button sizes included in pattern notion lists are only suggestions, not absolutes. However there may be design elements that restrict the size choice.
Button sizes included in the pattern notion lists are the base diameters, not the buttonhole size. Sizes included in our button selections are also the base diameters.
Square buttons are measured on the diagonal and appear smaller than a round button of the same diameter.
Thick edge, highly domed and ball buttons will require much larger buttonholes.
Make sure the weight of the button and the weight of the fabric are compatible; or think about how to make them work together. Make sure the fabric texture and button texture are compatible; be careful of delicate surface fabric with irregular finish buttons.
Single or high-contrast buttons call attention to themselves. Think about the placement. Is that where you want to draw attention?
If your choice is a square button and you don’t want excess buttonhole stitching exposed, sew the button on diagonally.
Transparent buttons solve color-matching problems, but they also can disappear or look small or insignificant if they have no outer definition. Look for a translucent style that allows the fabric color to influence the button’s final appearance.
If an especially large buttonhole is required, or if the fabric is not strong enough for the repeated stress of buttoning/unbuttoning, consider sewing the button on top of the buttonhole and using snap or hook fasteners underneath.

How to Sew Buttons on to Stay

Cut thread 20-24” long. Use buttonhole twist thread for coats and jackets, good quality hand sewing thread for other garments. Wax the thread in both directions. Thread the needle and knot the ends of the thread together.
Start stitching with the knot on the surface where the button will be. The knot will end up under the button. Stitch top to bottom to top, through the button, and back to the bottom.
Place a smooth, small “lift” between the button and fabric and between the threads. Try using a T-pin, a round toothpick, a size 1 knitting needle, or a finishing nail. (If you are attaching a shank button, use a smaller lift device.)
Make 3 to 4 thread passes through the fabric, button and around the “lift”, ending with the needle between the fabric and the button. Remove the “lift”.
Wrap the needle and thread “figure-8” style, 3 or 4 times around the thread strands to create a shank.
End by passing the needle and thread through the cross of the “figure-8” and end with a pass over the final thread loop.
The resulting thread shank will be firm and resistant to wear by friction. It will allow flexibility and not pull the fabric.

Replacement Button Tips (or Size Does Matter!)

When replacing buttons on a completed garment, knowing the size of the buttonhole is more helpful than having the original button.
Is the buttonhole flexible? Stiff? Fully clipped?
If the original button is flat or has a thin edge, you will need to look at a smaller diameter if your replacement choice is higher or has a thick edge.
Unfortunately, inappropriate size buttons are often on ready-to-wear clothing.
Never force a button through the buttonhole. Repeated stress or pushing a too-large button through a tight buttonhole is a primary reason for losing buttons.

Caring For Your Buttons

Ceramic

Ceramic buttons can add panache to even the plainest of garments. While they are spectacular, they are also delicate – treat with care!

Hand washing in a gentle detergent is the preferred method of cleaning garments with ceramic buttons.
Dry cleaning is not recommended, as ceramic buttons tend to chip when they are tumbled in a machine. If the garment must be dry cleaned, remove the buttons first or ask the cleaners to “bag” the garment.
If you must machine wash glazed ceramic buttons, try this method: Fold the garment, tucking the buttons into the center so that they are protected from the machine by the fabric. Place the folded garment in a pillowcase, pinning it closed to prevent escape. Place the pillowcase in the wash with the rest of your load.
Machine drying is not recommended because of possible chipping. If you must dry by machine, button the buttons and turn the garment inside out and pin it in several places to protect the buttons.

Glass

Buttons of genuine glass were popular in the 1800’s and early 1900’s. Today, glass buttons are works of art…all are handmade. There are very few makers of glass buttons left in the world today. Special care should be taken to preserve the beauty of glass buttons.

Let your dry cleaners know the buttons are glass and request they be removed, or remove them yourself before sending the garment to the cleaners.
When washing the garment at home, hand wash. Machine washing or drying in a dryer may cause breakage.

Metal

Metal buttons have been popular for centuries. Made of gold, silver, pewter, brass, copper, and a variety of alloys, most of them are very durable and may be washed and dry cleaned safely. Most metal buttons will eventually show scratches, but these marks can often give a button an attractive patina.

Don’t soak garments in water for an extended period of time, or metal buttons may rust or discolor. If rusting occurs, make a paste of powdered cleanser and water; rub it gently over the stained area and rinse to remove the stain.
To keep real silver buttons bright, use a silver polishing cloth, or rub in some cream of tartar with a soft cloth. Cream silver polish (not dip) may be used to remove heavy tarnish.

Mother-of-Pearl or Shell

A lovely pearl or shell button is exquisite – a miniature work of art from Mother Nature. To ensure the longevity of these delicate buttons:

When dry cleaning, request that pearl/shell buttons be removed or covered with foil to help prevent breaking.
When washing at home, hand wash with a gentle detergent. (Machine washing may cause them to break.) Do not put in dryer!

Rhinestone

Rhinestones bring sparkle and dazzle to your garments. They are among the most decorative and expensive buttons on the market, and they deserve special care!

The most common problem with rhinestones is loose stones. Always check the stones before purchasing a rhinestone button. If a stone does fall out, it can easily be put back into place with durable glue.
Never immerse rhinestone buttons in hot water, which can loosen the glue holding the stones.

Rhinestones are often made of glass.

Synthetic Materials

Polyester and nylon are the most common and versatile materials used for buttons today. Casein, a milk-based plastic material with a natural-feeling texture also fits into this category. A wealth of colors, textures, designs and finishes are available in synthetic buttons.

Avoid excessive heat, such as a hot iron. It could cause your buttons to melt.

There are two ways to dye buttons: internally and externally. Internally dyed buttons are colorfast. Soaking buttons for any period of time can cause loss of color and luster.
When placing a dark button on a light fabric, we recommend that you first wash your buttons separately. If they contain excessive dye, it will usually come out in the first washing…thereby reducing the risk of the dye bleeding onto your garment.

Bleach may cause buttons to fade or discolor. Avoid the use of bleach products on garments with colored buttons. Read the list of ingredients to see if your detergent contains bleach.
Polyresin buttons, which resemble ceramic buttons, can safely be washed but not dry cleaned. Check the care instructions that come with your buttons.

Wood, Leather and Horn

These natural products add a wonderful texture and “feel,” especially to fine woolens and handknits. Being organic materials, they need special protection.

Neither machine nor hand washing is recommended for wood or leather. (There are exceptions: some styles are coated with a protective, water-safe veneer. Check the care instructions provided with the buttons.) Horn buttons may be hand washed.
Ask your cleaners to cover the buttons with foil.

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