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Sewing Tips: Fabric Care and Handling

See also: Care of Silk

Care (and Handling) of Fleece

WHAT'S IN A NAME?
Manufacturers offer a wide variety of trademarked fleece and pile fabric styles and qualities.

DETERMINING THE QUALITY OF FLEECE
There is a wide variety of fleece qualities in today's market. It is up to the discriminating sewer to determine whether a particular fleece is of suitable quality for the intended project. Just as with any other fabric, quality is determined by many factors.

  • Density: How much fiber is in the fleece? Is it dense and thick or thin enough to show threads under the fuzzy surface. The denser the fleece the better the quality.
  • Recovery: How good is the memory? Gently stretch the fleece and let it relax. Does it quickly bounce back to its original dimension or does it wave and ripple? High quality fleece has quick recovery.
  • "Rough it up": To give yourself a preview of how well the fabric will wear, rub the fleece roughly against itself, in a circular motion, on both sides of the fleece. If it looks a bit rugged, starts pilling, or distorts, it is a lesser quality fleece. High quality fleeces go through multiple shearing and velouring processes to reduce pilling.

FLEECE & PILE FABRICS
Fleece and pile fabrics have similar end-uses and are sewn using the same techniques. Fleece fabrics are knitted then brushed to create a downy surface. Most sewing enthusiasts choose mid-weight, double-sided (fuzzy on both sides) fleece with a sheared even finish. Pile fabrics have a lofty surface created by a sliver knitting machine which permanently locks fibers onto a knitted backing. Berbers have a bumpy, lambswool appearance on one side with a flat knit backside. Plush fabrics are like short velvety fur on one side with a flat knit backside. Berbers and plushes are "pile" fabrics, referring to the method by which they are constructed.

Fleece fabrics are predominately made from 100% polyester and offer more wind resistance per weight because they are compacted during the brushing process. Pile fabrics are primarily made from acrylic fibers blended with polyester. Pile fabrics provide a bit more warmth per weight.

Because polyester and acrylic fibers "hate water", fleece and pile fabrics retain very little water. That's why they work so well for outerwear.

LAUNDERING
To avoid unnecessary abrasion, launder garments inside out, separately or with similar garments. Use a powdered detergent in luke-warm water, gentle cycle. (Liquid detergents may alter the effectiveness of the moisture wicking chemical treatment applied to some lighter weight fleeces.) Do not use bleach or softeners. (Softeners have an adverse effect on the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) chemical finish that is applied to the surface of some mid-weight and heavy weight fleeces.)

PRESSING
Pressing is not recommended. If during the construction stage pressing seems necessary, hold the iron above the fabric and steam. Finger press to encourage the fleece to lay in the desired position. Never place an iron directly onto the fabric. Direct contact may leave a permanent imprint or melt the fabric.

THE ETERNAL QUESTION: How Do I Tell the Right and Wrong Side?
It is important to know which is the right side (the face) of the fabric because that is the side that will wear better and look nicer for a longer period of time. Pile fabrics and single-sided fleeces have a plain knitted backside and are easy to tell the right from the wrong side. Double-sided fleeces are not as obvious.

Fleece fabrics generally curl to the wrong side when stretched on the crossgrain. To avoid errors, meticulously mark the right sides of each garment piece as you cut them out.

 *A special thanks to the Home Sewing Association for allowing us to reprint this article. We hope you'll find an opportunity to visit their website.

Care Of Silk

Dry Cleaning is recommended for best results, although silk, being a natural fabric fiber, can also be hand-washed with care. KEEP IN MIND TO PRE-SHRINK BEFORE CUTTING OUT. Washable silks include: Charmeuse, Crepe de Chine, Noil, Sueded or Sand-Washed silks, some Crepe, Chiffon and Georgette. Always Dry Clean dark or bright colors to maintain intensity of colors.

IF YOU CHOOSE TO WASH YOUR SILK:

1) To help retain the silk's true color, add 1/4 cup of white vinegar to every two gallons of lukewarm/cold water. Wash with a good soap compatible with silk finishes and squeeze to remove excess water. Never twist or wring.

2) Wash silk articles separately. Rinse with cool water SEVERAL times. Strong colors will appear to bleed. This excess dye normally ceases after a few washings. To help set the dye, add a few shakes of salt to the final cold rinse.

3) Non-Sueded or Plain Silks: Roll in an old towel (in case colors bleed a bit) to absorb moisture, hang to dry in a dark place. Dry iron on low temperature on the wrong side of fabric while still damp.

4) Sueded or Sand-Washed Silks: Hot dryer is recommended to bring up the finish and softness. Keep in mind that the MAXIMUM SHRINKAGE will occur 5% to 10%. Some loose weaves will shrink 15% to 20%. Wash and dry before cutting.

WHAT NOT TO DO:

1) Never expose silk articles to strong direct sunlight. Silk will fade.

2) Never spray perfume or deodorant on silk.

3) Never soak silk in water for a long period of time.

NOTE: Silk is a natural fiber fabric. The occasional irregularities and variations in shade and weave are in no way to be considered defective. They are characteristic of the fine silk yarn which gives this fabric its beauty and texture.

*This article is courtesy of JB Silks.

 

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