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Stitched by hand, lacquer-coated or laser-cut, the fabric of both princesses and punks
takes center stage for spring
Wall Street Journal
RUNWAY | TAKEAWAY
MARCH 5, 2011
From virginal veils to "Like a Virgin" gloves, lace can play almost any part, be it innocent or ingenue. Labels such as Erdem and Balenciaga made lace a key element in their spring collections, presenting the delicate fabric in provocative new ways.
Called "punto in aria" (or "stitch in the air") by the Italians, the intricate weave became popular in Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries. Charles V of Belgium, where arguably the finest lace was made, ordered the art of lace-making to be taught in every school and convent in the land. This season, adoration for the foundation-less woven is stronger than ever.
Between Valentino's lacquer-coated lace dresses and Christopher Kane's Queen Elizabeth II-inspired neon leather skirt suits, perforated to look like the fabric, it's clear the ancient weave has been reinvented. Nicolas Ghesquiere laminated lace to denim pants and stitched shirts made from sequined, hand-painted panels of the fabric. And at Louis Vuitton, designer Marc Jacobs showed revealing sultan pants and long skirts in black guipure lace coyly woven with the house's initials.
Although laser-cutting and lamination may be far cries from traditional techniques—Grace Kelly's full needle-lace wedding dress for her marriage to Prince Rainier of Monaco was stitched by an army of MGM seamstresses in four complex parts—there are plenty of classic offerings this season, too. Like the wearer herself, lace can be wholesome, alluring or even avant-garde. The choice is yours.
Traditional | Subversive | Playful
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![]() L'Wren Scott |
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![]() Oscar de la Renta |
![]() Brioni |
![]() Alberta Ferretti |
![]() Balenciaga by Nicholas Ghesquiere |
![]() Jean Paul Gaultier |
![]() Meadhamm Kirchhof |
![]() Alexander McQueen |
![]() Aurille Bidermann |
![]() Issa |
![]() Erdem |
![]() Christopher Kane |
![]() Louis Vuitton |
![]() Christopher Kane |
![]() Nicholas Kirkwood |
![]() Gap |
![]() Naemeh Shirazi |